CAYE CAULKER - GO SLOW!

a beautiful sunrise after a long night on the bus


Journal Entry
February 17, 2006
Caye Caulker, Belize

After catching the 4am bus to Corozal, Belize from Chetumal, Mexico, Ron and I were fully prepared to spend about an hour in the Corozal bus station, until the sun rose, before heading out onto the streets to the pier and catching the boat to the keys.

The plan changed very quickly, however, when we got dropped off in Corozal on a street corner and not in a bus station at all. Belize has a very different feel than anywhere else in Central America as it is far more like a Carribean island. It's clear from the moment you cross the border.

Needless to say, as we stood on the street corner at about 5am in the pitch black, we were both feeling a little nervous about our predicament. The plan to wait in the bus station very quickly changed. We had an immediate sense of panic. I tried to keep the situation calm, telling Ron to pull out his lonely planet map while I grabbed my compass. I figured the best plan was to keep moving.

We chose a direction in which to head and proceeded, not wanting to spend much time standing still, looking lost after the bus had pulled away. After just one short block we walked past a small, one room house with many people living in it. A few inside and a few sitting in the doorway. "Top 'O the mornin' to ya" said the man sitting in the doorway. He was extremely nice and it was a welcomed and relieving greeting to receive. We said a warm good morning back that was met with a Rasta "Respect". After all "One Love" is at the core of the rasta value system.

We continued on our path, following a garbage truck along the road. We were not entirely convinced that we were headed in the right direction for the pier so when we caught up to the garbage men we asked for some advice. Turns out we wanted to take the other street that had been an option back at the bus stop so we turned around and made our way back. At this point there was already more life on the streets making us feel that much more comfortable. We walked past our Rasta friend once again and again we were met with a warm greeting. The man asked if we needed help and eagerly jumped up to help point us in the right direction. We confirmed our directions with him and he set us off with a pound of the fist and another "Respect". We had both calmed right down at this point about the situation we were in feeling much more comfortable than a few minutes earlier.

Everyone we passed was incredibly friendly, greeting us with a warm smile and a wave. In just a couple minutes we were at the foot of the pier and decided to wait under a street light at the picnic table in "The Children's Park", to eat and orange and watch the sun rise along the water. The sky was starting to get lighter along the horizon and the fishermen were making their way to the pier. A local man, who seemed to be mute, stood with us and chatted (via hand gestures and sign language) for a while and enjoyed the orange that I shared with him. Shortly after he headed to the pier, the bright sun started to poke its head out from beneath the clouds on the horizon and an American man (tourist) stopped and chatted with us for about an hour.

By then it was almost time to board the 7am boat to San Pedro so we gathered our things and walked the few metres to the pier. We were expecting a ferry but instead found ourselves boarding a 3 engine speedboat. The boat was indeed speedy but it still took 2 hours to get to San Pedro, the main city on the bigger Caye Ambergris. The water was like glass as we took off and there was no land in sight for miles around.

After an overnight trip and broken bits of sleep, I was defensless against the sound of the water and motion of the boat and fell asleep for the first hour or so of the trip. We did wake up for the bumpier and more interesting final half hour as we pulled through the keys into San Pedro. Upon docking my first order of business was to find a bathroom, many thanks to the people at Mickey's Restaurant!!

Next up was making our way to another pier to catch yet another boat to our final destination at the smaller (and more affordable) Caye Caulker. This ride was much shorter at only half an hour. Not sure where the other pier was we asked a woman, who had stopped her golf cart in front of us, (the most popular mode of transportation, next to the bike, in the keys) where we should go. She pointed us in the right direction then told us to just get in cause she was heading that way anyway. Everyone in Belize is absolutely fabulous. I am totally amazed and even a little overwhelmed at how nice everyone is. It is such an amazing experience just to walk the streets of this country. Very heart-warming indeed.

Once we finally reached our beach front cabana accomodation there was no fighting off the sleepiness and we both passed out for a healthy 5 hour nap before getting up to wonder the island and have some dinner. Jerk chicken for me, super hot like it should be, but totally delicious. After dinner we headed back to the cabana to have a couple beers on the pier and met up with fellow Canadian, and friend from Tulum, Rick. The sky was totally clear and the stars plentiful, so we enjoyed a couple hours out there, the winds strong but warm flying past us as we chatted.

We all three agree that this is a very beautiful place and one we will enjoy for at least a few days. For now, I shall crack open my book and continue to enjoy this rare alone time I'm having before letting the sound of the wind and waves lull me into what's bound to be a fantastic night's sleep!

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sunrise over caye caulker

Journal Entry
February 20, 2006
Caye Caulker, Belize

It's just after 6am here and I kept waking up from Paranoid dreams. I've got what are likely insect bites, mosquitos probably but not sure, on my legs that are very itchy and being that I'm down travelling these parts I've become worried (probably unnecessarily so) about them. It has made for a slightly restless sleep last night, although I'm sure the two and a half cups of coffee after dinner didn't help either.

Anyway, this time I woke up and took a look outside, noticing that it was almost sunrise I decided to come out to the pier. It's beautiful out here. The breeze is strong and steady but still just a breeze and as the sun is just rising it's still cool, which feels nice. There are still many clouds in the sky, but whether they stick around for the day is yet to be determined.

It was a rainy day in the tropics yesterday which also made it a lazy one too. I slept the morning away and the early afternoon too, before heading to the only sports bar in town to watch the Canadian men blow a game 2-0 against the strong Finnish team. It seems most of the Canadians here right now had the same idea, and we were all were disappointed. We decided to stay an extra night though to catch our women play for the gold medal, a game that's bound to be exciting and hopefully much more gratifying! (NOTE** Just came from that game...way to go ladies...show the men how it's done!!) This sunrise is breathtaking. It's funny that since I've been here I've caught two sunrises and have yet to see a sunset, though I've heard they too are spectacular. I only hope my pictures will do them justice.

There is something so innately peaceful about sunrise that sets it apart from sunset. It's the waking up of the day, when the earth, and all its inhabitants, rub their collective eyes and slowly pry them open from their hours of rest. A time, that moment really, when peace is upon us all, before the activities of the day move us into action, and most often, routine. As I sit here now, the sun is up and casts a warm, bright light almost directly upon me. The wind is in my hair, the waves kiss the pier and the bird life has risen, the sounds of chirping and various other communication are all around me. The cool breeze remains steady but without the same edge it held this morning as the heat from the sun has officially arrived. Now, some member of the animal kingdom, that chooses water as its home, has begun making noise beside me. It seems, however, only to break the surface with loud splashing and not with its body. Maybe it's a sting ray. The day has begun on Caye Caulker where the island motto is "Go Slow" and no one here seems to have a problem doing just that.

We will be leaving this paradise behind tomorrow in search of cultural expansion in Guatemala, first in Tikal at the ruins, then on our way down to Antigua where I will take two weeks of Spanish classes and meet my local, host family. It is one part of my trip that I have most been looking forward to. That is tomorrow, however, and today I will enjoy the Carribean sunshine and a taste of home as I watch the Canadian women's hockey team vie for Gold, all form the beautiful Balizean island of Caye Caulker.