Keeping Busy In Antigua

March 11, 2006
Antigua, Guatemala

You know it's always a good sign when you look through your travel journal, or in this case blog, and there are no entries or updates for more than a week. My blog and journal are both in just that state right now. It's almost always a sign that things are going well and you're having a good time!


con mi madre de guatemala, Carolina, en el jardin

That is absolutely the case for me in the past couple weeks. Tomorrow I move out of la casa de mi madre de Guatemala. I will miss both Carolina and the comforts of home that her house provides me (including my own private bedroom) very much. I've had a most amazing time in the last two weeks learning and practicing my spanish every morning with mi maestro Vinicio and enjoying sometimes raukus mealtimes at la casa de Carolina. She is the sole family member (not including Sooky and Potsy the dogs) with which I stayed but she loves to host students and currently has 6 of us there with her. All from different parts of the world, it makes for some very fun and interesting mealtime conversations.

The last two weeks have certainly been a filled with a whole lot more than just classes and meals mind you! Last weekend Samara and I headed out to Rio Dulce, very close to the southern Belizean border and the Carribean Sea. After a long, hot, bumpy, extermely crowded and just downright treacherous 7 hours on the bus (we were told it would take about 5 but "Guate time" is just something you have to get used to down here) we found our refuge at Casa Perico, a place that I can only describe as a jungle oasis on the Rio Dulce. We pulled into it by water at night and immediately felt the stress of the day's travels wash from our backs. It is an open air haven with vast boardwalks connecting all the various rooms and main bar/restaurant area together and the sound of tropical rains each night were the perfect background for some much needed sleep.


muy bonito, el Rio Dulce

In our first night there we met some local (and VERY well off not that that really matters but it was clear)Guatemalan boys. They were all in Rio for the weekend after having completed a long run of mid terms at University in Guatemala City. It seems that Rio Dulce is like the Muskokas of Guatemala and in some ways riding along the river, through the vast canyons actually did remind me of days spent tripping through the lakes of the Haliburton highlands with a group of kids and a few canoes. Our local guides treated us to our very own private trip up the river as well as a delicious shrimp ceviche lunch and dinner and drinks back at the "cottage" (luxury home) afterwards. It was a great experience to have, enjoying a more unique couple days than your average tour would offer and getting an insiders point of you to Guatemala. I thank our hosts, Juan, Louis, Andres and Gustavo very much!

The bus ride home from Rio was far shorter and more comfortable and pleasant than the ride back and we were extremely pleased to arrive back in Antigua in time to catch the weekly Sunday evening procession through the streets. Weekly, during lent anyway, as we lead into the Easter celebrations of Semana Santa. I'm very glad to have been here to experience this little piece of the culture down here. The Semana Santa celebrations are very important and the procession is a stunning sight to behold.


Semana Santa procession at central park in Antigua

With a great dinner from "Traveller's Menu" in our bellies we headed back to my place to catch the Oscars, seems like Jon Stewart did a great job but I was only able to catch half of what he said as the lady translated over him in Spanish, making it very hard to focus on either language, and leaving the pictures to tell most of the story. Of course I watched mostly for that moment at the end where I got to see someone I've worked with on the nomination list for Best Director. Very exciting indeed and many congrats to Bennett Miller.


mi maetstro Vinicio y yo learning some slang on my last day

The next day I was up early again for my second week of classes. I have truly enjoyed every minute of my classes and learning the Spanish language and my only regret is that I couldn't stay longer to learn more. I guess now it's up to me to make a point of using what I've learned. As my final week came to an end, I found myself hoping that I will be able to make it back here next year to work again with Vinicio to continue to improve upon my last couple weeks.

This past week was jam-packed with far more than just my classes mind you. On Monday, Sam and I took an hour long walk with a group of other up a hill in Antigua afectionately called Cruz, for a bird's eye view of this ancient and beautiful city. The afternoon activities certainly didn't end there mind you.


overlooking the beautiful city of antigua from "la cruz"

On Wednesday we headed out on our most extraneous endeavour yet to tackle the very much active el volcan de Pacaya. The walk up is meant to take about 2 hours. I'm proud to say we did it in about 1 hour 40 minutes, but the last climb to the crater was some of the most difficut and frustrating hiking I've ever done. Not so much because of the physicality in it, though it was not easy, but because climbing volcanic rock is like walking on a treadmill. Every time you take a step your foot slides back about 15 cms from wence it came.


El volcan Pacaya spewing it's hot lava

We made it to the top though and it was so worth it. The peaks of the rock were spewing smoke and the centre crater was panting a loud rythmic breath as it glowed a burning hot red. Not long after we reached the crater, it started spewing lava. Small bits at first and then gradually bigger and bigger chunks came flying into the air as the panting got louder and louder. We were able to stand and admire it for about 25 minutes before it was time to head back down, both because the spewing was getting stronger and the sun would soon be setting. It was easily one of the coolest experiences of my whole life and one that I will never forget. I very much look forward to the volcanos that will follow as I continue on my adventures and hook up with the GAP adventure tour Monday that is aptly named "The Volcano Trail".

The fun didn't stop there but it sure did take a decidly calmer turn. On thursday afternoon we took a tour of an absolutely beautiful Orchid farm. The monk orchid (which funny enough resembles Ontario's trillium) is a beautiful stark white, 3 petelled orchid with a bowing centre that looks like a praying monk, and it's Guatemala's national flower. My roommate Michael and I splurged on a beautiful purple, potted orchid while there, as a thank you to our wonderful madre de Guatemala, Carolina, for all her hospitailty in having us at her place. It is six yaers old now and I hope it lives with her in her beautiful home for years to come.

I've opted to stay in town this weekend to tie up looses ends (like updating everyone here and finally posting a bunch of pics) before taking off to Honduras Monday morning. Tomorrow we will rise at the crack of dawn to take the 3 hour trek out to Chichicastenego to visit the famous Sunday Market there and pick up some things for the road.

There is no doubt that I'm sad to be leaving Antigua so soon, but I look forward to the many adventures that undoubtedly lie ahead as I begin the final month of my adventures away from home. Though I'm not homesick in the traditional sense of the word, I must admit that I am looking forward to seeing you all again in just over a month, though I'm sure it will feel like much less time then that once it arrives. I guess I should probably get that ticket booked!