AAAHHH...ANTIGUA!!

the cathedral lining el parque central at nighttime

Journal Entry
February 26, 2006
Antigua, Guatemala

Right now I'm lying on my very comfortable bed in my totally private room in the home of Carolina Jagau, my family host here with the Ixchel Language School. I've unpacked my entire bag and am very happy to be settled in one place for a while. Since I left El Remate only a couple days ago, I feel as though I've been on a most extreme adventure, and really I guess I have.

Rick and I hailed a minibus full of locals in El Remate for a ride to Santa Elena en route to the day's final destination of Coban. Now, when I say minibus full of locals, I mean FULL! I've never in my life seen so many people fit into minibuses like I have since travelling through Guatemala. Even when you think there's no way another child could fit, a woman and her 3 children will squeeze on in, and that's just the people, nevermind all the cargo (which sometimes includes people) on the roof. It's absolutely insane, but it is certainly a sight to be seen and an exciting journey to be had.

Although most conversation on any of the buses was between myself and Rick, it's very clear that Guatemala is full of wonderful people. They are all very quiet and softspoken, even the kids, and always greet a smile or hello with a very warm HOLA and smile in return. The kids are especially fabulous. Not only are they extremely well behaved, even under the hottest and most cramped conditions, but they are truly beautiful and wear the warmest smiles of them all. I seemed to be able to invoke many of them and of course that made me happy.

It took us almost 7 hours, and 4 buses, to get from El Remate in the north to Coban in the centre. As Rick and I stood waiting for our final bus on the busy market street of Raxucha (sp?), a young girl came up to me to sell me some food and instead stayed and chatted with me for the entire 15-20 minute wait. She knew no english, but with my broken spanish we were able to discover much about each other. It took her hearing it a couple times to believe that my family was not only small (one brother, no sisters...couldn't get into the step family explanations as my spanish is defnitely not that good) but that my mama and papa were both far away in Canada. She her self of course had 4 sisters and 3 brothers. She was very taken with my yin yang necklace and very much enjoyed our conversation, especially my full body sign language in trying to explain what my sleeping bag was. She stuck with me until I left, waving at me through the window as my bus pulled away, easily the most jam packed bus of them all. At it's fullest I believe we had 25 people in there, although about 7 of them were ninos.

We finally made it to Coban in the early evening, tired and starving after a long day on the road and many servings of crackers. We found our hostel, Casa D'Acuna with some help from a fellow gringo, in town from LA volunteering with a group called Eco-Quetzal that sounds very interesting and worth checking out in the future. As we wandered around Coban a little after a very expensive (by backpacking standards) but very satisfying pesto pizza, we bumped into our volunteer friend again and chatted with him and a few other American guys in town working on various projects. They all told us that Semuc Champey was a MUST SEE and totally worth every last bit of time and money it would take to get there. I had already caught wind of its existance in an MSN conversation with Pat, but wasn't sure I would have the time. After talking to those guys and seeing a couple photos, which did not do it justice, Rick and I could not resist the temptation to squeeze it in. It certainly added some to the budget but was worth every last penny.

The drive down to Coban from El Remate takes a decided geological turn in the final leg when you cut into the mountain and begin 2-3 hours of switchbacks, peaks and valleys are deep and lush and beautifully green. They are unlike any I've seen before and I can't quite pinpoint why, but my best answer is their depth and dense lushness, if that's a word. Semuc Champey is buried within the depths of this lush jungle mountain. It takes 2.5 hours (partly back up north) from Coban with the final hour or so on a very windy, VERY bumpy road. It's the kind of place (including the surprisingly sized town of Lanquin about 10 Kms before you reach Semuc Champey itlself) that you are shocked to find there because it's so buried. The ride may be bumpy but it's also incredibly beautiful. The whole way down I had a sense like I was descending into a magical place. There were even overgrown parts of the mountains that we couldn't help but wonder whether they were in fact undiscovered Mayan temples.

Rick and I had scored some kind of promotional deal with our fare in that gave us a night's accomodation at the year old jungle hostel retreat Hospedje de la Sapote for a measly 5 Quetzals (less that $1 USD) more than the fare so of course we took it. It certainly seemed somewhat questionable but it was totally legit and the place was a little piece of heaven buried deep in the Guatemalan mountains.


the beautiful cascading pools of Semuc Champey as the day neared dusk

Luck seemed to be on our side all around yesterday as we got a guided tour of the caves near Semuc and a hike in Semuc Champey (National Park) for no more that the price of admission to each. The park itself is a natural wonder with gorgeous blue cascading pools, connected by tiny waterfalls, running through the valley. The pools are deep enough to dive into and the fresh water is the perfect cool temperature. They are really to hard to describe with any real hope of properly converying the beauty, but they will remain on my recommendation list forever. The hike up to the Mirador lookout point is not for the faint of heart or those with full hands. This is the kind of hike that requires special attention to footholes and a hand down for extra stability but it's worth it! Just wish I hadn't had to do it in my flip flops but it took it a bit slower and made out just fine. The sweat was dripping down my back by the end of it all and leisurely swim around the natural pools was the perfect way to end an exhilerating and challenging day.

The real challenge of the day's activities came at the beginning as we made our way deep into the dark caves near Semuc. I'm really not one for caves, they totally freak me out, always have, but I'm on this trip to challenge myself myself so I fought off the creepy feelings and made my way into the dark, with nothing but a candle to guide me, along with the rest of the group. I wasn't sure how long I'd last when, a few steps in, the bats starting chirping and dashing about. It's the bats in caves that really get my skin crawling, but stubborn as I am, I continued on, cause I just really couldn't be "that girl". I sure am glad I did too, because it was an awesome experience. We waded and swam the cave waters, climbed stragetically placed ladders and hopped over internal waterfalls, all with candles in hand and mine only went out once. It was beautiful to take a moment in a deep, dark cave a watch as 18 torches walked, climbed and swam along through, lighting the way. A lazy float, in an inner tube, down the river after resurfacing was the perfect was to close the terrifying and exciting trek into the caves.

Easily one of best parts of my day, yesterday, as meeting John and Jessica, from Colarado. They are two of nicest and funnest people I've met in my trip and I'm only sorry we didn't have more time to spend together. They very kindly gave me a hammock they had purchased in Flores since they had later found two others they liked more and no longer wanted to carry the extra weight. It also doesn't hurt that John picked a beautiful colour palette. It was hard to say good bye to them so soon and truly hop that our paths will cross again either in my home or theirs, wherever that may be.

The mission to make it to Antigua this afternoon made for yet another long day of ahiry bus rides that started before dawn. I could barely keep my head up or my eyes open on the bumpy roads out of Semuc but I did do so long enough to see a big, bright, orange, sun rise up from behind the mountaintops. It was the best sunrise I've probably ever seen and I wish I had a photo to share. I don't, however, and so it will remain a magical picture I hold sacredly in my mind, much like my trip to Semuc Champey as a whole.

Now, I have settled into my home in Antigua and am looking forward to a good night's sleep that will not include the viewing of a sunrise in the morning, though it will still be an early one as tomorrow I begin my quest to become a Spanish speaker.

Good night! Buenos Noches!

Tackling Tikal

our first stop of the morning was the grand plaza

Journal Entry
February 23, 2006
El Remate, Guatemala

Today was a MASSIVE day! We woke up at about 5am in order to get ready and catch the 5:30am minibus to the Mayan ruins at Tikal. Early mornings have become easier for me in the last year, thanks to work, bit it still doesn't make it easy. Especially not after a night of sleep that was intermittent at best with about 2 hours being the longest interval I was able to acheive. Regardless, we set off for a day climbing massive, and incredibly impressive, temples and pyramids. Getting an early start is pretty much vital as there is a lot of ground to cover and all tour groups start arriving about 9-10am. It's always nice to have time in a sacred place before it's invaded by tourists.

In order to see all but one of the structures, one must spend 7-8 hours and walk about 15 Kms, not including the many ascensions up about 6 of the massive temples and pyramids. On little sleep, or not, it takes a serious effort to cover the area, and you can't rule out the effect of the hot Guatemalan sun! We all went through A LOT of water and only made one bathroom stop. Needless to say that upon our return home all clothing was covered in sweat and placed directly into laundry bags.

It seemed that throughout the day, whenever I would check my watch, it was about 2 hours earlier than I expected it to be. The highlights of my day were climbing the giant pyramid (the view was outstanding) at Mundo Perdido and of course the monos. We saw other wildlife as well but you know how I love those cheeky monkeys. Another highlight easily, came at the end of our sweaty day when we all 3 decided it was time to play monkeys ourselves (easy task for me, I know) and headed to the park's entrance gates to swing through the jungle on a canopy tour. It's a good thing I did this a few years ago because, unlike then, we didn't get much of a lesson beforehand. We deduced that this was because we had shown up just after another group did their first line and they wanted us to join them, as we did.

Riding down the first line it all came back to me and I felt right back at home swinging through the trees. Even the two leaders asked me, spearate from one another, if I had done this before...and where. Canopy tours are exactly the kind of thing I'm gonna end up blowing my budget on I'm sure. But the monkey in me just can't help myself!

Tomorrow we bid adieu to Ron at the god awful hour of 4:30am as he will make his way back into Mexico. Then after a few more hours sleep, hopefully, as the rooster down the street starts doing his thing at about 4:45am, Rick and I will make our way to Coban, via Santa Elena. Looks like we'll spend the night in Coban before heading to Antigua, in order to keep the travel days shorter and possibly discover something else that was unplanned. El Remate was an originally unplanned discovery and so thank you Patio darling for the suggestion. I really like it here, as you knew I would! It's just my kind of town, plenty of things and places to make tourists/backpackers happy, without being overrun with them. I look forward to swapping stories with you when I get home.

As for my more immediate future, I'm looking forward to settling into Antigua at my host family's home for a couple weeks and, if all goes well, vastly improving my spanish!

Hasta Luego!

Riding the chicken bus to Guate

a typical Guatemalan chicken bus by night

Journal Entry
February, 22, 2006
El Remate, Guatemala

We rode the reggae bus from Belize City to San Ignacio yesterday. It was a hot 3 hours on an old converted school bus. The seats were packed and so was the aisle, but the reggae blaring from the speakers in front and back and helped make the ride more enjoyable. I also had a lot of fun playing with el bebe that sat on her grandmother's lap beside me and took quite an interest in my sleeping bag that sat on my lap. We played together for a while, tapping on the sleeping bag like a drum between her many turns showing me her great strength as she would wrap her tiny arms around the bag (almost the same size as she) and stand to lift it! Much like Giselle (my neice) she took much delight in my applause at her strength.

It wasn't long until el bebe was fast asleep in her grandmother's arms and I found myself gazing out the window at the Belizean countryside, wind on my face, alone with my thoughts, which I found drifted greatly towards Giselle. Wondering how big she is now, how much longer her hair must be, whether she has had her first hair cut yet and how many more words she must be able to say since I left. I miss her very much and really look forward to seeing her when I get home. Once she takes her inevitable minute or two to recognize me, I'm going to scoop her up in my arms, squeeze her tight and smother her with hugs and kisses.

Once we arrived in San Ignacio it took us a couple misses but we found a good deal on a room at Rosa's hotel. The best part of it easily being the shower. Not only was the water hot but the pressure was strong. There's no doubt it was the best shower I've had since LA and I enjoyed every second of it! Those bites I was worried about diminished significantly after a thorough scrubbing and my head felt a few pounds lighter after a double shampoo. So lovely to realize just how dirty I was...gross!! I guess that's just a part of life on the road when your budget is tight, but we do the best we can. It was a leisurely evening spent doing some email, having a happy hour Belikin (the local brew) and an absolutely wonderful chicken curry dinner at Hanna's, then back to the room for a little reading adn a good night's sleep.


Sak Luk our artsy and beautiful accomdation in El Remate

We left Belize for the Guatemalan border at about 7am, opting to hitch a ride with a tour company headed for Tikal. It may have cost a few more dollars, but it was well worth it for a smooth and easy (and safe) trip through the border, all the way here to El Remate, about 45 minutes south of the Tikal ruins.

It is absolutely beautiful here. We are staying in an open air room overlooking the crystal clear, fresh water, Lake Peten Itza. Our accomodations, Sak Luk, are upthe mountainside in amongst the lush, tropical greenery and natural rocky paths. The outdoor sitting areas all offering an absolutely stunning view of the lake. It's a very artzy place offering meals and tasty Guatemalan coffee and out hosts are incredibly friendly and accomodating. We've been here for about an hour and it's still only 11:30am.

Tomorrow morning we will head out at the crack of dawn in an attempt to miss at least part of the peak tourist hours at the Tikal ruins. They are expansive and apparently quite impressive. After what is likely to be a long day there we'll make out way to Flores for a night en route to Antigua, where I'm very excited to start my spanish classes.

CAYE CAULKER - GO SLOW!

a beautiful sunrise after a long night on the bus


Journal Entry
February 17, 2006
Caye Caulker, Belize

After catching the 4am bus to Corozal, Belize from Chetumal, Mexico, Ron and I were fully prepared to spend about an hour in the Corozal bus station, until the sun rose, before heading out onto the streets to the pier and catching the boat to the keys.

The plan changed very quickly, however, when we got dropped off in Corozal on a street corner and not in a bus station at all. Belize has a very different feel than anywhere else in Central America as it is far more like a Carribean island. It's clear from the moment you cross the border.

Needless to say, as we stood on the street corner at about 5am in the pitch black, we were both feeling a little nervous about our predicament. The plan to wait in the bus station very quickly changed. We had an immediate sense of panic. I tried to keep the situation calm, telling Ron to pull out his lonely planet map while I grabbed my compass. I figured the best plan was to keep moving.

We chose a direction in which to head and proceeded, not wanting to spend much time standing still, looking lost after the bus had pulled away. After just one short block we walked past a small, one room house with many people living in it. A few inside and a few sitting in the doorway. "Top 'O the mornin' to ya" said the man sitting in the doorway. He was extremely nice and it was a welcomed and relieving greeting to receive. We said a warm good morning back that was met with a Rasta "Respect". After all "One Love" is at the core of the rasta value system.

We continued on our path, following a garbage truck along the road. We were not entirely convinced that we were headed in the right direction for the pier so when we caught up to the garbage men we asked for some advice. Turns out we wanted to take the other street that had been an option back at the bus stop so we turned around and made our way back. At this point there was already more life on the streets making us feel that much more comfortable. We walked past our Rasta friend once again and again we were met with a warm greeting. The man asked if we needed help and eagerly jumped up to help point us in the right direction. We confirmed our directions with him and he set us off with a pound of the fist and another "Respect". We had both calmed right down at this point about the situation we were in feeling much more comfortable than a few minutes earlier.

Everyone we passed was incredibly friendly, greeting us with a warm smile and a wave. In just a couple minutes we were at the foot of the pier and decided to wait under a street light at the picnic table in "The Children's Park", to eat and orange and watch the sun rise along the water. The sky was starting to get lighter along the horizon and the fishermen were making their way to the pier. A local man, who seemed to be mute, stood with us and chatted (via hand gestures and sign language) for a while and enjoyed the orange that I shared with him. Shortly after he headed to the pier, the bright sun started to poke its head out from beneath the clouds on the horizon and an American man (tourist) stopped and chatted with us for about an hour.

By then it was almost time to board the 7am boat to San Pedro so we gathered our things and walked the few metres to the pier. We were expecting a ferry but instead found ourselves boarding a 3 engine speedboat. The boat was indeed speedy but it still took 2 hours to get to San Pedro, the main city on the bigger Caye Ambergris. The water was like glass as we took off and there was no land in sight for miles around.

After an overnight trip and broken bits of sleep, I was defensless against the sound of the water and motion of the boat and fell asleep for the first hour or so of the trip. We did wake up for the bumpier and more interesting final half hour as we pulled through the keys into San Pedro. Upon docking my first order of business was to find a bathroom, many thanks to the people at Mickey's Restaurant!!

Next up was making our way to another pier to catch yet another boat to our final destination at the smaller (and more affordable) Caye Caulker. This ride was much shorter at only half an hour. Not sure where the other pier was we asked a woman, who had stopped her golf cart in front of us, (the most popular mode of transportation, next to the bike, in the keys) where we should go. She pointed us in the right direction then told us to just get in cause she was heading that way anyway. Everyone in Belize is absolutely fabulous. I am totally amazed and even a little overwhelmed at how nice everyone is. It is such an amazing experience just to walk the streets of this country. Very heart-warming indeed.

Once we finally reached our beach front cabana accomodation there was no fighting off the sleepiness and we both passed out for a healthy 5 hour nap before getting up to wonder the island and have some dinner. Jerk chicken for me, super hot like it should be, but totally delicious. After dinner we headed back to the cabana to have a couple beers on the pier and met up with fellow Canadian, and friend from Tulum, Rick. The sky was totally clear and the stars plentiful, so we enjoyed a couple hours out there, the winds strong but warm flying past us as we chatted.

We all three agree that this is a very beautiful place and one we will enjoy for at least a few days. For now, I shall crack open my book and continue to enjoy this rare alone time I'm having before letting the sound of the wind and waves lull me into what's bound to be a fantastic night's sleep!

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sunrise over caye caulker

Journal Entry
February 20, 2006
Caye Caulker, Belize

It's just after 6am here and I kept waking up from Paranoid dreams. I've got what are likely insect bites, mosquitos probably but not sure, on my legs that are very itchy and being that I'm down travelling these parts I've become worried (probably unnecessarily so) about them. It has made for a slightly restless sleep last night, although I'm sure the two and a half cups of coffee after dinner didn't help either.

Anyway, this time I woke up and took a look outside, noticing that it was almost sunrise I decided to come out to the pier. It's beautiful out here. The breeze is strong and steady but still just a breeze and as the sun is just rising it's still cool, which feels nice. There are still many clouds in the sky, but whether they stick around for the day is yet to be determined.

It was a rainy day in the tropics yesterday which also made it a lazy one too. I slept the morning away and the early afternoon too, before heading to the only sports bar in town to watch the Canadian men blow a game 2-0 against the strong Finnish team. It seems most of the Canadians here right now had the same idea, and we were all were disappointed. We decided to stay an extra night though to catch our women play for the gold medal, a game that's bound to be exciting and hopefully much more gratifying! (NOTE** Just came from that game...way to go ladies...show the men how it's done!!) This sunrise is breathtaking. It's funny that since I've been here I've caught two sunrises and have yet to see a sunset, though I've heard they too are spectacular. I only hope my pictures will do them justice.

There is something so innately peaceful about sunrise that sets it apart from sunset. It's the waking up of the day, when the earth, and all its inhabitants, rub their collective eyes and slowly pry them open from their hours of rest. A time, that moment really, when peace is upon us all, before the activities of the day move us into action, and most often, routine. As I sit here now, the sun is up and casts a warm, bright light almost directly upon me. The wind is in my hair, the waves kiss the pier and the bird life has risen, the sounds of chirping and various other communication are all around me. The cool breeze remains steady but without the same edge it held this morning as the heat from the sun has officially arrived. Now, some member of the animal kingdom, that chooses water as its home, has begun making noise beside me. It seems, however, only to break the surface with loud splashing and not with its body. Maybe it's a sting ray. The day has begun on Caye Caulker where the island motto is "Go Slow" and no one here seems to have a problem doing just that.

We will be leaving this paradise behind tomorrow in search of cultural expansion in Guatemala, first in Tikal at the ruins, then on our way down to Antigua where I will take two weeks of Spanish classes and meet my local, host family. It is one part of my trip that I have most been looking forward to. That is tomorrow, however, and today I will enjoy the Carribean sunshine and a taste of home as I watch the Canadian women's hockey team vie for Gold, all form the beautiful Balizean island of Caye Caulker.

Rainy Day in Tulum

sitting in the hammock with Aussie Sarah in the back of The Weary Traveller hostel in Tulum before a big night out

As I write this I'm simply killing time until my bus leaves for Chetumal, and the Belize border, at 10pm tonight. Ron and I are headed on our way tonight...final destination...Antigua, Guatemala, for some Spanish classes at the Ixchel school.

We plan to take about 10 days to get down there stopping first for a few more days of beach and, hopefully, sunshine in the keys of Belize, specifically Caye Caulker. It will be interesting to be back in an english speaking country, patois yes but english none the less. Everything I've heard about Belize from my fellow travellers is very good. Apparently the people are all extremely nice and, as I would imagine, the scenery is beautiful. I will finally be staying in a cabana on the beach which I'm very much looking forward to. I want to see the sunrise!

Of course I think that sunrise will happen tomorrow morning as we will have about 4 hours to kill in the Chetumal bus station early tomorrow morning (middle of the night really) while we wait for the first bus crossing the border at 6am. It's going to make for little sleep tonight but it's worth it to save the money on accomodation and maximize our daylight hours in Belize.

After a few days, we plan to head across the Guatemalan border at San Ignacio, Belize, to Tikal to check out ruins that I hear are amazing. Our general route to Antigua after that is yet to be fully determined but I look forward to seeing the Guatemalan countryside which by all accounts is to be amazing!

My last day here in Tulum has been very low key and relagated to the indoors as it has been pouring down rain off and on since last night. I do enjoy the rain but was hoping to have one last day on the beautiful white sand beaches here before bidding this town a fond farewell. So instead we set out in search of the Canadian Men's hockey game versus Germany but instead found figure skating. Not the best as far as ROn was concerned but I was fine with that and it was very nice to see Canadian Jeffery Buttle win a bronze, live to air! I must admit that I really am missing the Olympics quite a bit. I'm a winter Olympics junkie and it kills me to not be watching in support of our Canadian team, but I will continue to search for hockey games whereever I am, and really I can't complain one bit about my current situation!

My feelings about Tulum are very strong. I really love it here and would happily come back at any time. I feel that my spirit has been awakened and enlightened here. I think it's due to a combination of the gentle and healing vibe I find here as well as the poeple I have chosen to surround myself with during my stay. This morning I did my very first meditation practice, under my friend Sarah's guidance, and I hope to continue to try and make it a part of my life. That will remain to be seen, as we all know I have issues when it comes to committing to things, but I will try none the less. Sarah has a most amazing energy that I find very uplifting and encouraging and I look forward to knowing her long into my future.

I really feel like the spiritual journey associated that I've associated with this trip since long before it started has been awoken within and is well on it's way to taking hold of me as I continue through the next few months. I look forward to discovering everything else that I and this trip have to offer for myself.

On that note I will sign off for now but look forward to posting another update soon! Despite my amazing adventures and endlessly good times I do miss you all very much and think about you often. As excited as I am about the coming months, I am equally excited to arrive home and share all my stories (and pictures of course they are coming I promise stsy tuned to this site) with you and hearing about everything that I've missed!

All my love,
Mollie Mols xoxoxo

A Moment to Remember

sunset over venice beach on my last night in Los Angeles


Journal Entry
February 3, 2006
Los Angeles, California, USA

I'm sitting in the hotel room updating my blog. When I look up, all I see in the mirror in front of me is the reflection of Rob, sitting on the bed behind me, playing his guitar. I'm so glad that he brought it, I'd hoped he would. I'm finding myself totally distracted by what I see and hear. It's a moment I wanted to be sure to remember. The image in the mirror over my left shoulder and the sounds I hear, put a smile on my face. He's humming a little and I wonder if there are words to this song or if maybe he's writing a new one right now?

I'm smiling!

Bienvenudo a Mexico

My last day in Los Angeles awas a wonderful one,save for having to bid Tim farewell at about mid day. We did, however, make it to the beach first for some sandwiches on the pier at Hermosa beach. The water a beautiful crisp blue and the waves an absolutely intoxicating roar beneath us.

Once Rob and I had sent Tim on his way, we headed out around Hermosa to make sure I had everything I needed for the rest of my trip, most importantly a new camera. I invested in a digital that I'm quite happy with it. It took a few stops here and there than planned, but we managed to get it all...oh wait didn't get a memory card for that camera so had to pay a fortune for one in Playa del Carmen...whatever!

With the business out of the way we set out in search of a sunset at Venice Beach. We succeeded. The sunset was beautiful and though Venice by dusk is not as hopping as by day I still got a sense of the daytime experience. There was many a hippie selling jewellery and sage smudges along the boardwalk and as we had a drink on the patio I even got to see one of the speedo clad muscle men I've heard so much about in Venice Beach. Not that a muscle man in a speedo is something I particularly enjoy seeing but you know what they say...when in Rome...or Venice Beach!


rob walking through santa monica at night

After the Beach, Rob took me to a great little spot in Santa Monica. One of these promenade type streets where no cars are allowed but only pedestrians wander. I love these kinds of streets, no matter where in the world, and Rob totally guessed right in taking me there. We found a patio at a cute little Italian restaurant for a fabulous glass of Pinot Noir and some stuffed mushrooms before having to rush off in time to meet Bengane back in Hermosa for a couple more.

Once we met Bengane it seemed every place we went into for a drink was just closing but the third one was a charm and we were able to settle in for a few more and some great conversation with each other and our waitress Angela, who was in fact NOT an aspiring actor...in LA...imagine that!

With a bit of a buzz on I headed back to Jamie's toget myself all packed up for the early flight in the morning. I had to be at the airport for 8am and wasn't done packing until about 2am. Still wide awake, I headed to bed in an attempt to get some sleep before venturing off on what was easily the most exciting and nerve racking part of my journey. If you know me at all it won't surprise you that I got next to no sleep that night. I fell asleep okay but went on to wake up every 45 minutes or so worrying about something that I should do before I left or that I had somehow forgotten something! My alarm was set to beep at 7am but by about 630am I decided to get up and get ready for the trip to the airport. Rob was up about 45 minutes later and off we went. I bit my nails and stressed the whole way there, thankful that I was with my good friend, the only thing keeping me calm! Thanks again Rob!

My plane took off as planned at 930am and away I went on my adventure. It made me feel better to know that my Aussie friend, Michael, would be in Playa Del Carmen, where I planned to spend my first few days, and I would meet up with him. As the plane descended into Cancun I could see some evidence of hurricane damage. Though it was not at all ravaged farther inland, some damage was clear. Trees were leaning farther than seemed normal and a little bare but nothing too sad. Upon landing, I easily found my bus to Playa and I was on my way.

I got into Playa just as the sun was setting and so decided to take a cab to the hostel as I was unsure of exactly how safe the town was at night. During the cab ride I got the feeling there wasn't much to worry about and as I came to discover I was right. I booked my bed at Hostel Playa and spent some time in my room with my journal. I was feeling rather homesick for that first night having just left a situation in LA that was a lot like being with family for a week. I decided that I would be best off to move out in the common area in hopes of finding Michael.

Someone put on a movie and I was happy to enjoy it, but in those two hours I did not find Michael. As I went to bed (early and a little down) I decided that maybe he had already gone to Tulum and that the next morning I would be doing just that myself. I was feeling nervous about embarking through Mexico on my own but felt it was the best thing to do, hoping to meet up with Michael or at the very least some others with whom I could travel to Guatemala. After quite a sleep in, I dragged myself out of bed and upon returning from the washroom looked down over the open concept hostel and saw a familiar figure exiting the door. "Michael" I yelled! I was so relieved to see him. He was more burnt than when I'd seen him last in San Francisco, having spent sometime on the beach, but a sense or relief coursed through my vines when I hugged him hello. I ended up spending about 4 nights in Playa and am so happy that I did. It's very much a tourist town overrun with Americans looking for a week of all inclusive fun in the sun but I met some great people and enjoyed getting in on the party for one night.


emil and magnus dancing it up at the blue parrot

First I met Emil and Magnus, a couple guys from Sweden, who love to have a good time, and were are also headed to Guatemala eventually. They have met us here in Tulum and now and I do believe that we will be seeing each other in Guatemala if we are not in fact travelling through that border together! A couple days in I also met Samara (Sam) from my hometown of Toronto! Always nice to meet someone from home, especially when you're dealing with bouts of homesickness, something that was not completely washed away with the Michael sighting but greatly eased indeed. It is also nice that Sam has currently started a month of Spanish classes at the Ixchel school in Antigua, Guatemala. The same school I plan to attend and will be doing so in her final two weeks there. So, I will have a friend at the school with me. I can already tell you that Sam and I will be friends, likely good ones, after our trips have wrapped up and we find ourselves back home. That is a feeling that is rare and very nice when travelling because it's not every day that you meet someone form home on the road.


Sam and I visiting "la finca des orquideas" after meeting up again in Antigua, Guatemala


learning to salsa at The Weary Traveller hostel in Tulum

Speaking of people from home...a few nights in Playa and Michael and I were happy to head to Tulum for a bit of a more relaxed vibe. Wouldn't you know that as I was participating in the, nightly, free Salsa lesson, here at the Weary Traveller Hostel in Tulum, I heard someone say "Hey, that's Mollie. I know her". I looked up at the sound of my name and who was there but Ron, an Assistant Director I work with on occasion back home. He had heard that I was travelling down here but never expected to run into me and sure enough here we sit side by side on the Hostel's free internet computers typing away to people back home.

Ron was planning to go to a spanish school in another part of Mexico but when he found out that to do so at Ixchel in Antigua would be half the price, he got to thinking. All that thinking has given me a travel partner for my entire trek down through to Antigua, something I'm very happy about as I was not interested in crossing the Guatemalan border on my own. So if Emil and Magnus also join us we could be a happy group of four. We are planning to go thorugh Belize because we hear the border corssings there are the safest but I have drastically cut down on the amount of time I plan to spend there as it is easily the most expensive country in Central America and I would rather spend my money and time on two weeks of Spanish classes.


riding our "beach cruisers" at the white sand beaches of Tulum

My time here in Tulum has been absolutely wonderful. A very welcome change to the touristy life in Playa. Here in Tulum there are still plenty of backpackers and tourists wandering the streets but we are all here to relax on the beautiful white sand beaches and try to get more of a feel of Mexican culture, rather than just tan all day and party all night. Yesterday, Michael and I rented "beach cruiser" bikes for $5 and headed about 10kms to the far south end of the beach. Another 10kms back made for a great workout, especially in the headwinds that hit us on our way home that afternoon. A bike is easily the best way to get to the beach, which is not at all on the edge of town but a bit far out. The hostel has a free shuttle service too, but the bike allows you to work on your own schedule.

As I lay on the beach I had the section all to myself. It is the same beautiful white sand and crystal clear blue waters as Playa, but without all the bodies littered across the shoreline soaking in the sun. There are people around but not crowded in like sardines and it is far more relaxing and pleasant than Playa.

Our bikes were due back at mid day today so we got up this morning and headed to see the Tulum ruins. The ruins are placed on the only elevated area along the Mayan Riviera coastline and it is a beauiful site, both from atop them looking down and from the beach looking up. The elevation staved off the Spanish invaders at first but they would return from Cuba once again to invade and forever change the face of Mayan culture.

After returning the bikes, we headed back to the Hostel to catch the bus to the with many others. Sarah (born in Vancouver, raised in Maine) is one of the most interesting and kind people I have ever met. She is a Reikki healer, Yoga instructor, meditator and clarivoyant and we get along very well. At about noon today we all disembarked from the bus at the beach and found a nice spot to park our stuff, form a circle and follow Sarah as she led us thorugh a Yoga class. A practice that we will continue for the rest of our days here. It was windy and we were all very well covered in sand by the time the class was done but it was easily the best Yoga I have ever partcipated in. She's a wonderful teacher and the setting could not have been more perfect. It's easy to do a sun salutation as you are being drenched in the heat of it and even easier to do a closing meditation to the sound of waves crashing into the shore, knowing that moments after you are done you will be diving into those very waves, covering your body in the healing waters of the Carribean Sea.

Another fabulous, self BBQed meal tonight and here I sit writing to you all the update of my days in Mexico thus far. I'm very happy and relaxed here now and enjoying the sun that is slowly kissing my skin more and more every day, the beautiful waters of the Carribean and every conversation I attempt in Spanish. I look forward to the time when I have completed by time at Spanish school and can more actively participate in conversations with locals around me!

I had the strangest dream last night but I will get into that at a later time. I've recorded it in my journal and will pass it along shortly. Also watch for pictures as I am now digital they will be posted soon!

VIVA LAS VEGAS

Okay, so throughout the week I spent in LA I must admit that I really didn't see much in the way of the touristy things to do. I was too busy with a wedding and hanging out with my good friends and generally just taking it easy before heading out on the greatest part of my trip, which was making me a little nervous and so I needed the distraction and relaxation, but one thing I did do was Vegas!

My goodness, what a place. Talk about sensory overload. Lights, lights everywhere and I LOVED IT! Don't get my wrong I could never spend much more then a few days there at a time but it sure is a fun place to let go and have a little fun!

The 6 hour road trip in from LA was half the fun as far as I was concerned. Got to see my first desert and gaze at the mountains as they moved pass my window, all the while with a great soundtrack courtesy of Tim and my ipod. As we passed the two "mini-Vegas" towns on the way in, Tim's excitement of the night ahead grew more and prevalentelent. He even cracked a beer in the back seat as we approached and used his coin phrase for the next 24 hours to justify it, "Hey this is Vegas". Admittedly there were a few things Rob and I were skeptical about being legal in Vegas but Tim always won out, cause hey, that's Vegas!

After checking into the Bally's hotel and freshening up from the car ride we were ready to hit the town. First order of business was to go the the closest bar, buy drinks, walk around with them until we found another bar, finish them, and get another round. Then repeat the whole scenario again! Why? Because this is Vegas and there are no rules in Vegas. We basically wondered around hitting every place we could think of throughout the night. We all agreed that the brand new Wynn hotel was our absolute favourite place on The Strip!

Try as I may have to use my long eyelashes (I broke out the mascara...) and ample cleavage (...and a hell of a tank top), we could not sweet talk the bouncer at Jet nightclub into letting us in with Rob and his kicks. So, we headed to the MGM grand for another drink instead. After what felt like an eternity of walking and drinking and walking and drinking and of course a lot of people watching (lots of young women with old, gross men...things that make you go hmm?) we hopped in a cab (with our drink because that's Vegas) and headed back to Bally's for a little bit of time on the slots and one more round. Rob was up for a little while until he decided to play the $1 slots and lost $20 in less time then it took him to finish his free drink. That's right if you're gambling you drink for free...why? Because that's Vegas!

It was about 5am when we headed back up to our room and I proceeded to remove every one of the Do Not Disturb signs on the doors of our hallway. It was Tim's idea but I was the culprit...I can admit that! I had a great time doing it too! We then made it to our door, put out DND sign up and our heads hit the pillows within seconds.

Somehow, we managed to make it up in time to check out the next morning for 11 (noticing as we walked out the door that our DND sign was no longer in place, but I guess that's fair) and proceeded to tour The Strip by daylight. We certainly weren't moving at any kind of fast pace but it was fun none the less. There is absolutely every type of person walking The Strip in Vegas but those that baffled me most were the ones who thought Vegas was a geat family vacation destination. I don't know about any of you, but Vegas is the last place on earth I'm taking my kids for a getaway. How much fun can you have in Vegas with your toddlers in tow?

The water show at the Bellagio was easily my favourite part of the day. Just ask Rob he's never seen me so excited, except maybe when I wleisurelyWe had a leisurly day in Vegas and at about 5pm decided it was time to get back on the road and head back to LA. It was a much quieter trip out then the one in, but equally enjoyable, probably thanks to Rob doing all the driving. Thanks again by the way Rob, it was greatly appreciated!

Once we got back to Jamie's there was no doubt that the best thing to do was find a good movie on TV (12 monkeys, managed to stay awake for about 45 minutes of it) and order a pizza. Almost immediately after the pizza was out, so were we. I woke up from a nightmare of crackheads invading Jamie's place and trying to attack me, relieved that no one was actually breaking in. Noticed the door was still unlocked, and locked it promptly, before switching from the loveseat (so not enough room for me) to the longer couch by the window and passing right back out till morning!

I will definitely be visiting Vegas again, with a pocket full of cash and suitcase full of sweet clothes...anyone who's interested in joining should let me know...why? Because there are no rules in Vegas!!

Boomer's Wedding

February 6, 2006
Los Angeles, California, USA

I arrived in LA in the late afternoon on February 2nd, tired and well done in from a week of some seriously good times in Frisco. Checked into the Wilshire Grand, a freakin fabulous hotel that I felt out of place walking through with my bright yellow backpack. I couldn´t wait to get to the room and chill right out. I had dreams of a hot bath and some TV on the long bus ride down and couldn´t wait to fulfill them.

I did just that with the 4 hours I had to kill before Rob and Tim Shortill would arrive at the hotel room door fresh off a plane form the T dot! I couldn´t wait to see them! After a month on the road it´s always nice to have a taste of home. I was all comfy cozy and relaxed when I heard the knock at the door and excitedly ran to greet my friends. It was just a matter of minutes before we were down in the hotel bar having drinks and I was being introduced to the, until then, missing Shortill boy or my repertoire, John the eldest. Another Kawabi Alumni but before my time there. The boys had a head start at the airport in Toronto, and of course on the plane ride, so I had some catching up to do. I thought I was taking it easy with only 2 drinks on the evening, but apparently a normal drink at the Wilshire is the same as a double (or maybe triple) everywhere else. I wasn´t complaining though. We took it fairly easy but still managed to get nice and sauced. I think it was the discovery of the 24 hour hot tub and pool that did us in. By about 4am we found ourselves loungin´ in the hot tub and excitedly awaiting the days that lay ahead.

Boomer, sorry, Jamie, woke us up with a relatively unneccesary phone call at about 9 the next morning, much to the dismay of Rob and Tim who tied a couple more on then I had the night before, not that I was particularly happy to be woken either but I was not in as rough shape as the boys. We decided to go with it and made our way downstairs for what I´m pretty sure was the most expensive breakfast any of us had ever eaten. Didn´t do that again, but in our state that morning we were defenseless against the tourist trap. By the time breakfast was over I met John Sr. and Helen Shortill and the circle was complete. We had a much needed relaxing afternoon and got ready for the rehearsal and rehearsal dinner that evening.

Upon walking into the wedding space for the rehearsal I immediately saw Jamie standing front and centre and was so excited to see him. I can´t even tell you how long it had been. Same old Jamie. The outfit was far less bright then all the neon I was accustomed to back in my early years of camp but the man had hardly changed. It was so geat to see him and give and get a huge Boomer hug!

I would be lying if I didn´t say how nice it was to be eating like a king. I had steak two nights in a row (along with many a great drink) and couldn´t have been happier. We hit a club in Pasedena after dinner on Friday night where I had the privilege of meeting all of Jamie´s friends and watching Rob devlop a harem of ladies around him, who he vaguely remembered the next morning. Needless to say it was a fun night and only the beginning as we awoke the next morning to GAME DAY!

The wedding was great. The ceremony was beautiful and relaxed. Plenty of laughter and a lot of love emanated from the alter, where Jamie and Krista stood, and infected the crowd. After the ceremony the party began. Beautiful speeches, food and dancing along with some great conversations with friends old and new. It was a truly wonderful evening that wrapped up with a great conversation on the roof of the Los Angeles Athletic Club, catching up with Matt Horan, Razz! WHat a trip the whole evening was!

The wedding celebrations culminated with superbowl Sunday at Jamie and Krista´s place in Hermosa beach where both families were taking things much slower and just quietly enjoying the compnay of others and the game. Actually I was more into the commercials and half time show but what else is new!

We crashed in Mark and TJ´s room at the LA Athletic Club on Sunday night before grabbing Jamie´s car and heading to Vegas for yet another night of total debauchery on Monday.

THE FRISCO CHRONICLES

the golden gate bridge from the ferry ride out to Alcatraz

Journal Entry
January 28, 2006
San Francisco, California, USA

It's Saturday afternoon and I'm taking things slow today. Last night was another late one, but the drinking was minimal. The "official" Friday night pub crawl left at 8:30 immediately following yet another free dinner...sweet (3 in a row...total score) and a group of us about 10 people deep were interested, but not right at that early time. We made sure we could get a hold of Julian (Aussie, roomie, leading the crawl) and chilled out for another drink or two. I gave Travis a hand cleaning the kitchen and by 10:00 we were ready to join the pub crawl festivities...too bad we couldn't get a hold of Jules!

So, we created a renegade pub crawl and headed off to parts unknown. China town was the mission and we accepted it so we set out to see what caught our collective eyes, although really Michael was doing all the looking out. Our first stop, couldn't tell you want it's called, didn't seem like much more than a chillin place to have a drink when we chose it, but once we entered we heard a band playing downstairs. Apparently it was a birthday party but the music sounded good and none of us could resist the temptation to go downstairs. We found a back route and snuck down to join the festivities. We weren't so sneaky though rolling up to the back stage area where the entire (small and intimate) audience could see us front and centre. Oh well, no one seemed to mind too much. We stayed for a few songs and finished our drinks, deciding that we had already outdone the original pub crawl since we had managed to totally crash a birthday party with a live band.


the infamous green tortoise from the side, those are the windows for the ballroom

From there we hit up two more places, both playing hip hop which was great! Got to do some dancing, which I always love. The first one was still in Chinatown and the second, much bigger club was conveniently located across the street from the Green Tortoise. When I got tired of dancing and was no longer feeling the music I headed back to the Tortoise for some foosball, pool and a late night cheese slice before my head finally hit the pillow.

It's a grey and overcast in Frisco today. I was thinking about going to Haight Ashbury today but I may just lay low. Tomorrow I will still be here so I can do it then. That and the Golden Gate bridge.

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Journal Entry
February 3, 2006
Los Angeles, California, USA


Okay, so I got a little carried away with the good times in Frisco and now have some catching up to do. Where to start I don't know. I think I dropped off the updating map sometimes around last Sunday when "Team Canada" decided it was time for a party in The Ballroom.

I had taken it pretty easy on Saturday night, though I stayed up until the wee hours talking to Bryan (Canadian, Kitchener). It's always so great to find someone you can easily talk to without even realizing how much time is passing. Sunday I grabbed a $4 bottle of wine and sat down in the unofficial Canada booth in The Ballroom. Team Canada consists of myself, Bryan, Darryl (London), Ryan (London), Aidan (Toronto) and JD (Guelph). In some ways it wasn't even just team Canada but Team Ontario! Sometimes it's just nice to hang with people from your homeland.


Team Canada - still near the beginning of white wine night

The first bottle of wine disappeared pretty quick so we got another, a magnum, and continued the party. That bottle disappeared too, although it took a little longer this time around. It still didn't stop us from cracking open yet another magnum mind you and at some ungodly hour that I can't even give you. Before the night was up we would consume copious amounts of wine, see the sun show it's face and eventually even great the early birds as they arrived for breakfast. That's when the four of us who remained decided bed was probably the best call. The all nighter ended up giving me a bit of cold to contend with now but I'll just smile with good thoughts every time I blow my nose.

Now, I'm still in Frisco and have decided to stay on for a couple more days at the Tortoise so of course the partying did not stop there. Most of the daylight hours on Monday were obviously spent in bed but once I did get up and try without success to shake the cobwebs from my brain, I somehow managed to keep my eyes open and help my roomie Jules (Aussie) make Monday night's free pasta meal. Took it pretty easy Monday night both out of necessity and the desire to enjoy Tuesday's free beer and open mic night.


bryan and i on free beer night

I had never seen The Ballroom as full as it was on Tuesday night. Of course with two free kegs that didn't exactly come as a surprise. The open mic brought in many a person with their talents; guitar playing, piano playing, singing, hoola hooping, break dancing, it was great! So much talent out there, it never ceases to amaze. Apparently some girl even did a little routine that ended with her topless and the word censored written across her chest. I didn't see it myself but I heard about form many a male friend. As can probably be assumed that Tuesday night WENT OFF!!


bryan, ryan, aidan and jd on free beer night - it's still early here

When the kegs ran out at the Tortoise we made our way to a bar on Grant St. (around the corner form the hostel) for some karaoke. I've never seen such wild karaoke. Unlike the usual mic on a stand on a stage set up that I'm used to, this bar was all about the cordless, handheld mic and taking it to the dance floor. Though only Ryan (Canuck, London) and Drew (Aussie) were given mics, you know we all got in on the action. The group of us from the GT (about 20 people big) invaded the dance floor and kicked the party up a few notches all the way to last call.

I opted to turn in upon my arrival back to the Tortoise but from the stories I heard the next day the, the party just kept getting elevated. Apparently The Ballroom floor was pretty polluted come the morning hours. The members of my infamous room #1 were all in fine form, one puking in a bucket, a couple passed out in The BAllroom and Travis woke up, somehow having reached his bed, with his shoes still securely fastened to his feet. As Jules announced at free dinner the next night, he's still looking for Travis' dignity so we should all keep our eyes open for it!

My last day in Frisco was grey and rainy and after heading out to discover Haight Ashbury district to get in touch with my hippie side. For those who don't know it's an area of Frisco that was made famous for the role it played in the hippie movement back in the day and all the famous, infamous and not at all famous hippies that hung out there.

First thing was first though, we needed food ASAP so we stopped along the way for a Burrito. We polished off the food and made our way to the bus stop to head out to hippie heaven, I was super excited. That excitement came to a screeching halt when we were waiting for the bus and I realized I no longer had my camera on me. I figured it would me a pointless exercise but I retraced my steps in the hopes I would fine it anyway. I didn't...SHIT! SHIT! SHIT! SHITTY! That's that, don't want to talk about that one anymore! All I can do is be thankful that the film in it was fresh so I didn't lose any shots and I guess now that I'll be purchasing a new camera (going digi for this) I'll be able to post some pics for you all to see as I write about stuff. Guess what I want for my birthday this year...you guessed it a 35mm SLR, preferably a Minolta to match the beautiful big lens I now have no use for.

I went out to Haight anyway and enjoyed my time looking in shops and walking in the rain with Bryan. It was one of those days where it just feels nice to be walking in the rain and getting wet just doesn't seem to matter. Too bad there were a lot of pictures I would have love to have taken while there. I do think though, that should I ever find the opportunity to live in Frisco Haight would be my preferred neighbourhood if I could afford it.

My last night in Frisco was a calm one. It was a mixed bag of emotions as I thought about leaving the next morning. A bag that became a little torn when I actually did have to leave the next morning. Got a little emotional and couldn't hold it in, a few tears were shed I can't lie! Obviously I was feeling very excited about heading to LA to meet the Shortills...all of them literally...but definitely sad to be saying good bye to Frisco, the Tortoise and mostly all the great people I met. Thankfully there's a good chance I'll see Team Canada again. After all they live within just a few hours of my hometown. As for the others form various parts around the world...you know you're always welcome to visit the Tdot!